Friday, June 10, 2011

Markets markets markets

Walking through the myriad of hawker stalls and food stands in the weekend market of Bangkok, it's easy to become overwhelmed. There are so many goods, and each vendor seems determined to make you buy something that you probably neither want nor need. The sweat glistens on nearly everyone's brow while moats of dust swirl in the shafts of light that penetrate the claustrophobic heat. Working here seems unfathomable from my sheltered perspective: nothing is clean, everywhere is crowded. 

It seemed to me that in such a busy and free-wheeling city, manners disappeared. On one half-mile stretch of road alone we encountered at least four tuk-tuk men who tried to sell a ride in their motor carriages by sometimes joking, sometimes reasoning, and sometimes yelling. I understand that people will always try to rip you off, but this city seemed particularly determined to flout manners for profit.

A few days ago three of us went on an adventure while the other five toured the royal palace. We meandered through the ever-present stalls until coming to the edge of the river that cuts through town. The fast-moving water churned and carried along unfortunate plants. We boarded a ferry for 10 cents and were across the river in a matter of minutes. We entered a world in which I was a giant. We were the only foreigners in sight. 

The market that we entered was perhaps just as crowded as the weekend market, albeit smaller. The real difference manifest itself in how the market-goers acted. None of the vendors actively sought our attention, but instead were more content to relax or talk with their friends while we walked on by. At one point alex stopped to examine some high-end headphones that usually sell for $200. After testing them out on some strange Thai song, he asked the vendor if they were real or fake. The vendor assured him that they were a knock-off, but smiled at us and thanked us as we walked away. After finishing with the market, we bought the most delicious boba tea that I've ever had in my life and found some seats in the middle of a medical complex under construction. The security guard for the complex eventually found us, and, smiling, he told us that we couldn't stay. But as we walked away, he waved us back and explained all of the other things that we could do in the area. 

In retrospect, almost everything that I did not like about Bangkok was a result of the tourism industry. Actual Thai people are quite courteous and friendly, and I'm glad that I had the chance to come to this realization. 

1 comment:

  1. When we last went to Bangkok, we were stuck in a traffic jam three hours each way - I guess we should have taken a tuk-tuk instead of a cab.

    BTW I love the take of all you guys on the land, people, sights and food... Insightful observations and description, poetic phraseology... but where are the pics?

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